In the last post I promised to wright about the results of comparing calculated yarn usage and the real usages. I was going to draw a lot of known patterns in to my software and compare the usages. I soon ran in troubles because my software was not flexible enough. It was impossible to select the right stitch count for various parts. So there was only one thing to do, make it more flexible. And that is done and published.
This summer I read “Knitting without tears” by Elizabeth Zimmerman and it got me thinking about proportions. One thing lead to another and I decided to examine the proportions in the classic Lopi sweater. What I did was to take the newest Lopi pattern books and extract all the stitch count, round count and all measurements I could in to an excel spreadsheet. I then made a chart for each proportion and had excel calculate a formula. I grouped the patterns in to men’s, woman’s and child sizes.
The best way to get the right measurement for my software is to find a sweater that fits the person and measure it. Lay it flat on a table and measure it. There are only 3 measurements that needs to be taken. Sleeve length from armpit, body length from armpit and half the length around the fullest part of the bust.
The measurement around the bust is the foundation for all the proportions in the sweater. To use the formulas substitute the X with the measurement around the bust in centimeters and then you have the multiplier. Use the multiplier to multiply the bust stitch count to get the the stitch count for the neck, sleeves or shoulders.
Lets take the men’s shoulders as an example.
The measurement a round the bust is 105 cm.
The gauge is 13 stitches to 10 cm so the bust is 120 stitches.
This is the formula for man size’s
The stitch count around the shoulders is then :
Multiplier = 7,1977 *( 105 Power -0,336) = 1,51
Then to get the stitch count in the shoulders => 120 * 1,51 = 181 stitches.
Or you can have knittingpatterns.is do it for you.
Following are the results : ( Click on an image to enlarge it.)